Commuter Reference Guide

Also - Check out our Commuting Tips and Employer's Reference Guide for biking to work.

Planning Checklist

The Month Before

• Get Friends and Family involved. We all have friends and family who think we are nuts for commuting to work on a bicycle. Now is the time to get them interested in commuting. Talk about fitness, stress-relief the freedom of riding a bicycle to work. You've all No matter what you skill level of commuting, it can still be intimidating for many people. There are lots of commuters out there and we can help people "get in the groove" and become comfortable with bicycling to work.
  

The Week Before

• Determine your route to work. The route you drive to work may not be the same one to bike to work. First, choose roads that have wide outside lanes or paved shoulders. Collector streets (those that are at the half mile mark between major streets) are often a good choice. Second, drive the route during your normal commuting time to determine potential traffic problems. Third, bicycle the route on a weekend to examine the road surface for potential problem intersections and the approximate time it will take you.
  
  
• Talk to your employer. Inform your supervisor that you will be commuting by bicycle. Ask where the bicycle can be parked during working hours, and what, if any, advance arrangements need to be made.
  
  
• Check out your bike. Make sure your bicycle is in proper working order. Not only should all the mechanical parts be in good repair (e.g. brakes, tire, gears) but the bicycle should be adjusted properly for seat height, handlebars, etc. If you do not have a helmet, borrow one or buy one. If you will be riding at night, you need and must have a light.
  
  
• Check out the weather for the upcoming week. Just keep an eye on the weather just to make sure you don't need any extra gear or need to make any alternative arrangements.

The Day Before

• Dress for the occasion. Wear a helmet. It's also a good idea to bike in comfortable cycling clothes; either pack a bag with your work clothes, or bring your attire the day before you cycle (so they won't get wrinkled). Also make sure you have a place to change and freshen up, and keep a "kit" of toilet articles and a towel at work.
  
  
• Pump Up. Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If they are low, it will make riding more difficult.
  
  
• Check out the weather tomorrow. Plan accordingly...

The Day of the Ride

• Don't cycle on an empty stomach You will need energy for your ride, so eat a good breakfast and take along something to eat along your way.
  
  
• Get an early start. The first time you bike to work, allow yourself a little more time than you think you will need. If you tested the route on the weekend as suggested you will know the approximate time it takes. BUT remember, rush hour traffic may slow you down.

ENJOY the Ride... You've earned it!

How Far and How Long?

Base your decision on how far to bike on your experience, confidence, and abilities.

Distance:Typically, 3-5 miles is an ideal distance for bicycle commuting; although, some seasoned riders go much further.

Time: Riding 10 miles per hour won't break a major sweat, and you can cover 3 miles in less than 20 minutes.

Mix it Up

Even if you live far from work, you can still incorporate bicycling into your commute:

• You can take your bike with you on many buses, or you can store your bike in a locker at light rail stations. Contact your local transit provider to find out about their bicycle programs.
• Ride your bike to meet up with a carpool or vanpool.

What should I wear while biking?

Shield your eyes from bright sunlight, road debris, wind, and insects by wearing protective eyewear.

Your clothing should be comfortable and should not get caught in your bike. For short commutes, regular clothing is adequate - just be sure to strap your right pant cuff to keep it from getting greasy from the bike chain.

Gloves can make your riding more comfortable and protect your hands.

For longer trips, many prefer to wear clothing specifically designed for bicycling such as shorts, tights, jerseys. Experiment with what works for you and invest in quality pieces over time.

You will need special clothing for riding in cold weather or the rain.

Another important part of your bicycling attire is a properly fitting helmet. Helmets can prevent head injuries, so wear one every time you ride. Your local bike shop will be glad to help you find a properly-fitting helmet.

Looking good for work

• Consider taking in a week's worth of work outfits on a day you don't ride; store them in a locker or in another secure place.
• You can carry your clothes with you on your bike by using a garment-bag type pannier. Experiment with packing your clothes; options include rolling your garments or folding them in tissue paper to prevent wrinkles.
• If your worksite doesn't have shower facilities, consider joining a health club nearby or see if a neighboring business has an available shower.
• Be sure to have a fresh towel and washcloth for quick clean-ups (and remember the deodorant!)

All About Bike Helmets

Many of these are experienced, careful riders--maybe just like you. And most of these head injuries can be prevented with bike helmets.

You say a helmet's too much of a hassle? It'd make your head sweat? Mess up your pretty hair? It's too expensive? You'd look like a geek? Think how good these sayings would look on your gravestone.

Construction: Nearly all helmets today are hard shell. They have a thin plastic surface on top of a soft foam core. The outer plastic allows it to skid when you hit rough pavement, rather than catch on something and break your neck.

Rating: Look on the inside of the helmet: It should have a CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commission) certification sticker. The CPSC rating has been required on helmets sold in the US since March 1999. Older helmets may still have Snell, ANSI or ASTM certification.

Helmet Fit: You must have a good fit. A snug fit means that if your head hits and skids, the helmet stays in place. Most brands of adult helmets come in two or three sizes, and you make them fit by adjusting the chin strap and putting foam pads around the inside. Don't wear your helmet back on your head because it won't protect your skull if you fall forward.

Test for a Good Fit: The helmet sits level on your head. You can't shift the helmet to the front, back, or sides of your head. With the straps correctly tightened, you can't possibly get the helmet off. If the helmet fails these, adjust the straps, put in different pads, or try another size. Ask your bike shop staff to help you with a proper fit.

Cost: Compared to the cost of emergency room visits--or funerals--helmets are cheap. You can get a decent CPSC-rated bike helmet for around $30, although they can run up to $150 or more in price. More costly helmets usually aren't much safer, but they have better ventilation, weigh less, and look cool.

Ventilation: A helmet's ventilation depends on front-to-back airflow. Good airflow comes from long, wide air vents. Bald, light-skinned cyclists beware: big vents can cause weird tan lines!

Weight: Cheaper helmets are usually not much heavier than expensive ones--and most cyclists adjust to them easily. If you think you want an light helmet, test-ride a heavier one to make sure.

Look: You can pay a lot of money for style. But don't be fooled. No matter how aerodynamic a helmet looks, it won't help you go faster.

Kids Especially Need Helmets: Children aren't as careful as adults when they ride--so they should always wear helmets. And always put helmets on kids whom you're carrying by bike; in a collision, very little protects them from flying off of the bike or trailer.

Ideal bikes for commuting

Mountain bikes have fatter tires and endure rough streets, but they are heavier and don't provide for the fastest commute.

Road bikes are the fastest but the dropped handlebars may be uncomfortable for novices, and high-pressure tires are unsuitable for some streets.

Hybrids are similar to mountain bikes but have tires and gears suited for city streets.

Cruiser or city bikes are often simple, one-speed bikes that work great for short trips.

Fitting Your Bike

1. Frame Size: If your bike's frame is too tall, too short, or too long, it's very hard to adjust other things to make you comfortable--so you might need a new bike.
   
   
2. Check the Height: Stand with your bike between your legs. Measure the space between the highest part of the top tube and your crotch. For city riding a one inch to three inch space is safest. (This is a general rule. It's different for other situations, such as off-road riding or with bikes that have a sloping top tube.)
   
   
3. Frame Length: If, when you ride, you feel overly stretched or have pain in your neck, shoulders, or back, your frame might be to long. Try moving the seat and handlebars closer together. Also, some people--including many women--have torsos shorter than what most bikes are made for. If you're one of them, you can get a bike with a shorter frame height and raise the seat higher, or get a bike made for people with smaller torsos.
   
   
4. Seat Height: A seat that's too low will strain your knees, while a seat that's too high will make it hard for you to pedal and put your foot down. Here are some ways to get the right seat height for city riding:
   • Sit on your bike and push one pedal all the way down. Put the ball of your foot on the pedal. If your seat's high enough your knee should be slightly bent.
   • If your hips rock from side to side when you pedal, your seat's too high.
   • Don't raise your seat so high that less than two inches of your seat post extends into the frame. Most seat posts have a mark showing how high you can raise them.
   • If you have to raise your seat higher, get a longer seat post.
   
   
5. Handlebars: After you've set your seat height, set your handlebars so you feel comfortable. Some things to guide you:
   • Start by raising or lowering your handlebars so they block your view of the front axle when you're sitting on your bike.
   • With your hands on the handlebars, you're elbows should be slightly bent (not locked).
   • Lower-back pain often means the handlebars are too far away, while upper-arm or shoulder fatigue often means the handlebars are too close to you.
   • Try raising or lowering the handlebars. Or moving your seat forward or backward. You can also change to a shorter or longer handlebar stem.
   • Don't raise your handlebars so high that less than two inches of your handlebar stem extends into the frame.
   • Most stems have a mark showing how high you can raise them. If you have to raise your handlebars higher, get a longer stem.
   • Rotate your handlebars so that they put even pressure across the palms of your hands without bending your wrists in a strange way.
   
   
6. Seat Tilt: Last, adjust your seat tilt for comfort: Many cyclists keep their seats level, while others have them tilted. If the front of your seat's tilted too high your butt will hurt, and if it's tilted too low you'll slide forward and strain your arms.
   
   
7. Saddle Soreness: If you haven't bicycled in a while, expect to be sore at first; chafing or soreness should get better with time. If it doesn't, the first thing to check is the seat adjustment; see Seat Tilt above and Seat Height. If adjusting doesn't help, look into a seat pad, a wider seat, a seat with a hole in the middle, or padded or seamless cycling shorts.
   
   

Inspecting your bike

Brakes: While standing next to your bike, push your bike forward while squeezing each brake individually to be sure they are capable of locking up the wheel.

Wheels: Wheel nuts and levers need to be tight, and the wheel should not wobble. Check for loose or broken spokes. Lift each end of your bike, spin the wheel to ensure your brake is not coming into contact with your wheel rim.

Tires: Check your tires for the manufacturer's recommendations on air pressure. Use a hand-pump to avoid overinflation. Tires lose a little air every day. If your gauge says a tire is more than five pounds under the needed pressure (printed on the side of the tire), add air. No gauge? Push each tire hard against a curb. If you can flatten it, add air.

Seat: Your seat should be positioned so your knee is slightly bent when the pedal is at the bottom of a pedal stroke.

Handlebars: Make sure your handlebars can't move side-to-side when you are holding the front tire still.

Shifting: Try all of your gears, shifting each gear lever from high to low. You have a problem if the lever sticks, you can't shift to all gears, the chain rubs, the derailleur, or the chain jumps off the gears. These are usually caused by worn or dirty cables, or a derailleur that needs cleaning or adjustment.

Pedals and Cranks: Your pedals should be securely attached to the crank arms. Check for loose bearings by trying to wobble a crank arm side-to-side.

Gears: Gear cables should slide easily and should not be frayed or rusty.

Chain: Be sure to lubricate your chain regularly, especially if you have been riding on wet streets or in the rain. A dry chain can lock up or break suddenly. If your chain squeaks when you pedal or it hangs up when you pedal backward, it's time to lubricate:

• Grab the bottom of the chain loosely with a lint-free rag. With the other hand turn the pedals backward, sliding the chain through the rag. Pedal the chain around twice to remove surface grime.
• With one hand squeeze or spray lubricant onto the chain, and with the other hand pedal the chain backward so it goes completely around once.
• Repeat the first step to get the excess lubricant off the chain. Extra lube can attract dirt.

Reflectors and lights: You must have a light while riding at night. See your local bike shop for recommendations for your needs and budget. Ensure that all reflectors are clean and properly aligned.

Be sure to take your bike to a shop once a year for a routine check-up!

Carry a Took kit

Tire pump for your type of valve.

Tire levers for removing the tire easily off the rim.

Spare inner-tube to fit your size tire.

Tube patch kit.

Small adjustable wrench.

Flat and Phillips screwdrivers (short & small, preferably).

Small Allen wrenches and a spoke wrench to fit your bike's needs.

$1.35: A dollar bill will prevent your tube from protruding through a tire gash and 35 cents to make an emergency phone call.

Again, your local bike shop can recommend a tool kit best suited for your bike.

Where to park your bike

Bike Racks: Find a bike rack. Bike racks are becoming more common place in front of businesses and other places of employment.

Sign Poles: Sign poles aren't the best places to lock your bike. Before locking to a pole, check whether you can pull it out of the ground. Also check how easily a thief could remove the sign and slide your bike over the top of the pole.

Parking Lots: Some public parking lots provide bike racks and or lockers. Those that don't may still allow you to park, for a small fee. If you forget your lock, look for an attended parking lot.

Indoors: A good way to avoid theft: Park your bike indoors. Some stores and buildings allow bikes inside, if only for a short time. Some employers provide a bike room, with showers and lockers nearby.

Commute by Bus & Bike

It's called the DART Bike & Ride and you can use it anytime during the year! With a bike rack on every regular, express and commuter-route bus you can take your bike just about anywhere - work, special events, parks, even your favorite bike trail! Find out more!

Lock it up!

Always lock up your bike, no matter how short-term you may need to park your bike. Lock it to a stationary object in a highly visible place. U-locks are best but can be heavy. You may also wish to lock up (or take with you) any easily-removable components like your wheels and seat.

Talk to your employer about securing a location for your bicycle if no facilities currently exist.

Accesories for your bicycle

Baskets/racks/bags: You'll need to put your stuff somewhere, so think of which items you will need (briefcase? books? clothes?), and select the storage device best suited for your needs.

Water bottle/cage: Staying hydrated is of paramount importance when biking, so be sure to carry water with you.

Bells & horns: Any kind of sounding device can alert others of your presence, especially when passing (you can also use your own voice).

Rear-view mirror: Although you must always look over your shoulder to check for traffic when changing lanes, a rear-view mirror is a good supplement. Different styles allow mirrors to attach to your bike, your sunglasses, or even your helmet.

Fenders: Stay clean and dry in wet weather by affixing fenders to your bike.

Lighting: If you ever ride in the dark, you must use lights. Check with your local bike shop for your own needs

Riding at Night

Reflective tape: Use white or yellow in front, yellow or red in back.

Reflective clothing: An orange safety vest or reflective (Illuminite) clothing increases your visibility. Don't wear dark clothes without some light-colored material too.

Jacket: Bright color with reflective piping in back.

Rear reflectors: Big ones are best. Get one at least three inches wide. Only red is legal but amber ones can be 8 times brighter. Reflectors work only if they're clean, so remember to wipe them off. Make sure it's pointed straight back and not up or down.

Rear light: Purchase a good LED light 3 LED lights work good, but ones with 5-7 LED lights work the best.

Flashing lights: Many cyclists use the red or amber flashing LED lights. Some can be seen a half mile away.

Pedal reflectors: Attached to the pedals. Because they move when you pedal, they attract more driver attention than fixed reflectors.

Reflective ankle straps. In any color, they attract attention from many angles.

Wheel reflectors: These white reflectors attach to spokes and are highly visible to approaching cross traffic.

Headlight: Battery-powered is best. Get the most powerful one you can afford. Use white, not amber or red. Generator lights can be bright, but many go dark when you stop, so they're poor for city riding. If you ride at night a lot, consider rechargeable batteries--you'll save money and our landfills.

Flashlight: In a pinch, attach one with rubber bands, a bungee cord or duct tape.

Only three percent of bike rides happen at night--but over half of all cyclists killed get hit while riding at night without lights. You need bike lights to be seen by others, not necessarily to see.

A car's headlights are visible from 3,000 feet and that's what most drivers look for. Since your upper body's at eye level, it's important to wear white, light-colored, or reflective clothing at night.

When you're riding after dark, consider the following:

Defensive Moves: At night you can't see where drivers are looking, and some are drunk. Slow down from your daylight speed. To make sure drivers see you when you're stopped, flash your lights by twitching your handlebars back and forth. And watch cars closely; be ready to get out of their way.

Know Your Route: If you're new at night riding, take streets where you know the potholes and traffic so you can focus on riding in the dark. Also, if you're not sure about nighttime crime in a neighborhood, ask some one who knows the area--or don't ride alone.

Night Blindness: Don't bike at night if your visual acuity is worse than 20/40 with glasses or contacts, or you can read a far-away sign or address fine in daylight, but not at night. Check with a doctor if you're unsure

Riding in rain, sleet and snow

Iowa has a host of many different riding conditions during he year. A mixture of rain, sleet, and snow can occur over half the year. With the snow and ice covered roads and trails, you'll still want to be careful on wet and wintery days. Here's what to consider:

Start of rain, sleet and snow: Don't race to beat bad weather after it starts. That's when streets are slickest because automotive oil on the road spreads before it washes away. Slow way down on turns and don't lean as much.

Wet Streets: It's easy to slip when things are wet. Watch out for slick things like metal-grate bridges, temporary construction covers, manhole covers, painted pavement, and leaves. Don't turn or brake on them. On metal bridges, if you have thin or smooth tires don't ride across; put both feet on the road and scooter across, or walk your bike on the sidewalk.

Puddles: Don't ride through a puddle if you can't see the bottom. It could be a deep pothole that'll throw you.

Reduced Vision: Remember that in rain etc., motorists and cyclists can't see as well. And it takes longer for us all to stop. Just go slower.

Braking: When brake pads and wheel rims are wet, they take up to ten times longer to work. Dry them by applying your brakes far ahead of where you want to slow down, causing your pads to wipe the rims. To dry them faster, pump the brakes by applying them lightly, then letting go, over and over.

People who bicycle in the cold and rain aren't nuts; they're just dressed right. But how?

Protection & Venting In Wet Weather: If your clothes keep out rain they might also seal your sweat in. To vent perspiration, wear a jacket or poncho that lets air in from the bottom, back, or sides. Front and rear fenders work well to keep your legs, feet, and back away from road spray.

Layer for Cold: You don't need a whole new set of clothes to bike in the cold. Instead, wear a sweatshirt or jacket and add t-shirts, light sweaters, and tights or long johns in layers as weather gets colder. By wearing light layers you can also remove outer clothes if you warm up while cycling. And if you sweat a lot, the layer closest to your skin should be a wicking material (synthetic instead of cotton) that'll let sweat evaporate as you ride.

Try different clothing to find what makes you comfortable at different temperatures and in the rain. In extreme cold or wind chill, cover your hands, feet, and ears well. Here are some other ideas:

• Cool: Light jacket or windbreaker; long pants or tights; light gloves.
• Cold: Thicker socks (or a second pair); heavier gloves; hat.
• Freezing: Sweater or another torso layer; glove liners under gloves: neck gaiter, turtleneck, or scarf; headband or earmuffs, add face mask, knee socks, heavy shoes or shoe covers.

To equip yourself for rain, consider the following:

• Wear light, bright colors: yellow, orange, lime green, or pink or anything reflective.
• Head: Cover it unless you have thick hair. A tight-fitting hood covers your ears and fits under your helmet. A baseball cap under your helmet will keep rain out of your eyes.
• Hoods: Don't use loose-fitting hoods that block peripheral vision.
• Neck: High collar or hood keeps water from going down your neck.
• Hands: Use gloves with a water resistant shell or a waterproof liner.
• Rain gear: Wear a waterproof jacket. If sweat's a problem, wear a loose or vented jacket, a waterproof poncho that lets in air from below, or a cyclist's rain cape that hooks to handlebars to keep it out of your tires.
• Leg gaiters: often made of nylon; keeps your pants legs dry.
• Feet: Wear synthetic or wool socks and in really wet weather wear rubber boots.

And now for your bike in rainy weather:

• Brakes: Grime builds up on brake pads, making them squeak or scratch your rims. Run a rag between each pad and the rim, like shining a shoe. Occasionally remove the tire and check pads for wear.
• Bearing damage: After biking in wet weather put your bike indoors so bearings can dry.
• Fenders: they beat almost anything to keep you dry on wet pavement. Plastic ones are cheap and light, but can crack if installed wrong.
• Rims: When wet, brake pads grip aluminum rims better than they do steel.
• Tires: Fat tires have better traction. Tires less than 1.25 inches wide work better on wet streets when under-inflated. Use tires with a herring-bone tread pattern

Getting there

• Streets with low traffic volume and lower speeds are ideal for novice riders and most pleasant with less noise and exhaust
• Look for roads with wide shoulders, wide curb lanes, and bike lanes so there is enough room for cars and bicycles.
• Check for good pavement condition. Avoid potholes and uneven pavement.
• Ride your route on non-work days prior to your initial bicycle commute to see how long it will take you and to make any necessary modifications to your route.
• Be careful of drainage grates and bridge expansion joints that can trap your wheels.

The rules of the road

Ride in the same direction as traffic in the right-most lane.

Obey all stop signs and traffic signals.

Use hand signals to communicate.

Be courteous to other cyclists, pedestrians, and to drivers.

Be as visible as possible by wearing bright and reflective clothing, using lights at night, and avoiding areas with poor lighting.

Be predictable in your riding.

Trouble Situations

Emergency Moves: When you're moving fast and something gets in your way, slamming on the brakes doesn't always work. This section describes some emergency moves that you can practice in a quiet parking lot. Start slowly, then work your speed up. Practice--so when you need an emergency move, you make it automatically. This section also tells you why knowing how to fall might keep you from serious injury.

The Quick Slow-Down: When you stop fast, your weight shifts from your back wheel to the front. Even if you use both your front and back braked your back tire can skid and start to lift. To slow down quickly:

• Push yourself as far back on the bike as you can. This keeps weight on the back tire.
• Put your head and torso as low as you can so you don't flip.
• Squeeze both brakes. If the back tire starts to slide or lift, ease up on the front brake.

The Instant Turn: Use the Instant Turn when a car turns in front of you while you're going straight. To make a very sudden right turn, steer sharply left--towards the car--which makes you lean right. Then turn right hard, steering into the lean.

The Rock Dodge: The Rock Dodge is just a quick turn of the front wheel to miss a rock or hole right in front of you. At the last second, turn the front wheel sharply left and back right again. Both your wheels should miss the hazard.

How To Fall: Most serious bicycle injuries involve brain damage, so the best way to protect yourself in a fall is by wearing a helmet. Otherwise, it's not easy to prepare for a fall. But if you have time to think:

• When you're about to hit a car, don't try to wipe out first; instead, stay upright as long as you can. If you get low you risk going under the wheels or hitting the sharpest parts of the car.
• If you go flying, tuck your head, arms, and legs into a tight ball and try to roll when you hit the ground. If you stick your arms out you're likely to break them, or your collarbone, or both.

Dogs: Here are some of your options when a dog chases you.

• Just stop. Some dogs just want a good chase and will give up when you're not moving.
• Stop and get off your bike quick. If the beast looks like it wants to attack, try to keep the bike between you and it. Shout something commanding, like Go home!
• Try to outrun it. This might be a good idea if there's more than one dog. Don't try to outrun it if you're not sure you can; too many cyclists have wiped out when running dogs jam their front wheels. If you go for it, try a squirt with your water bottle to slow Fido down. Don't try to hit the dog; you may lose your balance.
• Use a dog-repellent spray. But be careful: wind could blow the stuff back into your face.
• If a dog bites you, get to a doctor or hospital right away for a rabies test. If you know where the dog lives, tell the police so they can check with the owners.

Pedestrians: The law says you should yield to pedestrians in crosswalks. This can test your patience downtown, where hordes of pedestrians cross against the traffic light when they see no cars coming. So what happens when you're zooming down the street, come to a green light, and find a dozen people scurrying through the crosswalk? Warn them by shouting or using a bell, whistle, or horn. Remember: pedestrians look for cars, not bikes.

If there's still a crowd in the crosswalk, or pedestrians freeze, you should slow down or stop. If you don't stop, when you're close enough for the pedestrians to see you clearly, go carefully between them. Try not to go between parents and their kids.

Railroads: Some railroad tracks cross streets diagonally. If you go over these tracks without changing your direction, your tire might get caught between a track and the road. Instead, try to cross tracks at a right angle--especially when the street's wet.

Rocks and Gravel: When you bike over gravel, don't turn suddenly or use your brakes; you might wipe out.

Assault: It's rare, but it can happen. If somebody's determined to attack you, they will... Whether you're on foot, bike, or in a car. If you're afraid to bike in a certain neighborhood, don't--or go with friends and stay on busy streets. Here are some other tips:

• The best defense is to stay alert. If you see some one who looks like they'll hurt you, stay away from them.
• Don't stop, for any reason, in places where you think you're about to be attacked.
• Carry a defensive spray, such as a Mace or dog repellent, where you can grab it quick. Remember that people who use this stuff often get it blown back in their faces.
• If you get knocked off your bike by a mugger, don't fight. Try to notice what they look like, then go to the nearest phone and call 911.

Other safety tips

• Watch that door! Look out for people getting out of their parked cars as you're riding along in the right lane - it's best to stay out of "the door zone" as you don't have time to watch for doors and react appropriately
  
• Watch for vehicles turning right. Leave space for cars to turn right by moving to the LEFT part of the right lane as a courtesy at signalized intersections.
  
• If a bus is at a bus stop, avoid passing the bus on the right; otherwise, you run the risk of colliding with passengers getting off and on the bus
  
• Always carry identification.
  
• Carry change to make any necessary pay phone calls for help.
  
• If you need to stop your bike in an emergency, use both brakes and apply the front brake a little harder than the rear. If your rear wheel starts to skid, ease up on the front brake. When braking hard, sit far back on your seat to bring weight to the back of the bike to avoid getting pitched over your handlebars.
  
• Ride perpendicular across railroad tracks.